Leather tanning is the process that turns raw animal hides into a durable material that can be cut, stitched, shaped, and used for everyday goods. Without tanning, a hide would dry out, decay, and become unusable. For leatherworkers, understanding tanning methods helps when choosing leather for wallets, bags, belts, linings, and other handmade projects.

Different tanning methods create different results. Some leathers are firm and natural-looking, while others are soft and flexible, available in a wider range of colours. If you're also comparing leather by thickness, see our Leather Thickness Guide for a practical overview of what works best for different projects.

If you're deciding which material best suits your build, our guide on how to choose the right leather for your project explains how leather type, structure, and intended use work together.

What Is Leather Tanning?

Leather tanning stabilises the proteins in a hide, preventing it from rotting or breaking down. It also affects how the leather feels, how it ages, how it reacts to water, and what types of projects it suits best.

The two main tanning methods used today are vegetable tanning and chrome tanning. There are also less common methods, such as oil tanning, brain tanning, and aldehyde tanning, each with its own characteristics.

For makers, the tanning method matters because it changes the leather's firmness, flexibility, finish, and workability. A leather that works well for a belt may not be the best choice for a soft bag or lining.

The Main Types of Leather Tanning

Most leather used in leathercraft falls into one of these categories:

• Vegetable-tanned leather – firm, natural, and known for developing patina over time.
• Chrome-tanned leather – soft, flexible, and widely used for fashion, upholstery, and small leather goods.
• Other tanning methods – including oil tanning, brain tanning, and aldehyde tanning are used for more specialised uses.

Each type has its place. The right choice depends on what you are making, how you want it to feel, and how much structure or softness the project needs.

Vegetable-Tanned Leather

Vegetable tanning is one of the oldest leather tanning methods. It uses natural tannins found in bark, leaves, and other plant materials to preserve the hide. The process is slower than chrome tanning, but it produces leather with a traditional look and a firm, structured feel.

What Makes Vegetable-Tanned Leather Different?

• Firm and structured – well-suited to projects that need shape and support.
• Natural appearance – usually starts in pale tan or warm brown tones and darkens with age.
• Develops patina – marks, sunlight, and handling gradually give it more character.
• Good for tooling and stamping – often preferred for carved or embossed work.

Common Uses for Vegetable-Tanned Leather

Vegetable-tanned leather is commonly used for:

• belts
• wallet backs and structured wallets
• knife sheaths
• straps
• notebook covers
• tooling and carving projects

Things to Keep in Mind

Vegetable-tanned leather is not naturally water-resistant, so heavy moisture can mark or distort it. It also tends to cost more because the tanning process takes longer. For many leatherworkers, though, the firmness, natural finish, and ageing qualities make it worth using.

If your project requires cleaner edges, firmer structure, or decorative tooling, vegetable-tanned leather is often the better choice.

Chrome-Tanned Leather

Chrome tanning is the most common modern tanning method. It uses chromium salts to tan the hide much faster than vegetable tanning, usually in a matter of days rather than weeks. This method produces leather that is softer, more flexible, and easier to dye in a wide range of colours.

Why Chrome-Tanned Leather Is So Common

• Soft and flexible – ideal for projects that need drape or softness.
• Wide colour range – easier to produce in bright, rich, or fashion-led colours.
• More water-resistant – generally handles moisture better than vegetable-tanned leather.
• Widely available – used across fashion, upholstery, footwear, and craft leather.

Common Uses for Chrome-Tanned Leather

Chrome-tanned leather is often used for:

• handbags
• small leather accessories
• upholstery
• garment leather
• shoes and boots
• soft linings and pouches

Things to Keep in Mind

Chrome-tanned leather usually does not develop the same patina as vegetable-tanned leather. It is often softer and easier to sew, but it may not hold as well to deep tooling or stamping. Many leather scraps available for craft projects are chrome-tanned, which makes them useful for practising on soft leather and making small items like key fobs, card holders, and simple wallets.

If you are exploring project ideas, our guide to leather scrap projects shows practical ways to use smaller pieces of leather at home.

Other Leather Tanning Methods

Although vegetable tanning and chrome tanning are the main types most leatherworkers will come across, there are a few other methods worth knowing about.

Oil Tanning

Oil tanning uses oils to produce soft, flexible, and often water-resistant leather. It is commonly associated with leathers used in boots and gloves, as well as with some suede-like materials.

• Pros: soft feel, flexible structure, and better water resistance.
• Cons: less common, with fewer finishes and colour options.

Brain Tanning

Brain tanning is a traditional method that uses natural oils from animal brains to soften and preserve hides. It creates very soft leather and is often associated with historical or traditional hide work.

• Pros: natural method and very soft result.
• Cons: labour-intensive and less common in the modern commercial leather supply.

Aldehyde Tanning

Aldehyde tanning is a chemical tanning method used for certain specialised leathers, including some automotive and medical applications. It can produce pale, durable leather with good wear resistance.

• Pros: durable and suited to specific industrial uses.
• Cons: less relevant for most small leathercraft projects.

How to Choose the Right Leather for Your Project

The best tanning type depends on what you are making and how you want the finished piece to behave.

Choose Vegetable-Tanned Leather If You Want:

• more structure and firmness
• a natural finish that ages over time
• clean edges for burnishing
• tooling, carving, or stamping

Choose Chrome-Tanned Leather If You Want:

• softness and flexibility
• a wider range of colours and finishes
• leather for linings, soft bags, or garments
• smaller craft pieces that are easier to handle

For beginners, it often makes sense to test both types before committing to a larger project. Mixed packs can be especially useful because they let you compare firmness, texture, and stitch behaviour across different leathers.

Because tanning begins with raw animal hides, it also helps to understand the source material itself. Our guide on what animals leather is made from explains the most common hide types used in leathercraft and manufacturing.

If you're just starting out, our article on 6 DIY Leather Craft Projects for Beginners is a practical next step.

Why Leather Tanning Matters

Understanding the different types of leather tanning helps you choose materials more confidently. It affects how the leather feels in the hand, how it cuts, how it stitches, and how it ages over time.

Vegetable-tanned leather is often the better choice for structured projects and traditional leatherwork. Chrome-tanned leather is usually better for softer goods, colourful finishes, and flexible small projects. Neither is universally better — they simply suit different uses.

Once you understand the difference, it becomes much easier to match the leather to the project rather than guess. That saves time, avoids frustration, and leads to better results at the workbench.

Related Guides

• Leather Thickness Guide
• Leather Scrap Projects
• 6 DIY Leather Craft Projects for Beginners