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Leather Work Tips

Handmade leather wallet showing double loop leather edge lacing

What Is Leather Lacing? Tools, Stitching Techniques & Lace Types for Beginners

Posted on January 5, 2020


Leather lacing is a traditional leatherworking technique that uses thin strips of leather, called lace, to join pieces together or decorate edges. Instead of stitching with thread, leather lace is threaded through pre-punched holes to create strong seams and decorative patterns.

Lacing is commonly used on items such as wallets, bags, belts, knife sheaths, and moccasins. It can reinforce seams, protect edges, and add distinctive decorative detail. This guide explains the tools, lace types, and beginner stitching techniques used in leather lacing.

diagram showing common leather lacing stitches including running stitch, whip stitch, double loop stitch and cross stitch

The chart below shows several of the most common leather lacing stitches used in leathercraft.

Why Leather Lacing Is Used in Leathercraft

Lacing leather is a versatile technique for assembling and enhancing leather goods. Unlike traditional stitching, lacing uses leather strips threaded through evenly spaced holes. The result is both strong and visually appealing.

Leather lacing is often used for belts, handbags, wallets, bracelets, and shoes. It reinforces seams while also adding decorative edge detail. Whether you prefer a classic or modern style, laced leather designs offer many creative possibilities.

Most leather lacing projects work best with leather around 1–2 mm thick. If you're unsure which leather thickness suits your project, see our Leather Thickness Guide for a quick reference.

Must-Have Tools for Lacing Leather

leather lacing tools including lace and lacing needles used for leatherworking

Before starting a leather lacing project, it helps to have the right tools. Quality tools make the process easier and help produce cleaner, more professional results.

If you're new to leathercraft tools, our guide to essential tools for beginner leathercraft explains the most useful tools for cutting, punching, and assembling leather projects.

Leather Lacing Needles

Threading lace through tight holes can be difficult without a needle. Lacing needles grip the leather lace and guide it smoothly through punched holes.

  • Two-Prong Needle: Affordable and durable. Ideal for flat laces measuring 3/32" or 1/8".
  • Hook and Eye Needle: Designed for single use and works well with smaller laces.
  • Life Eye Needle: A reusable brass needle that works with several lace widths.

These needles help prevent fraying and make lacing more efficient.

Cutting and Hole-Punching Tools

Clean cuts and evenly spaced holes are essential for neat lacing work.

  • Sharp knife or scissors: For cleanly cutting leather and lace.
  • Leather hole punch: Creates consistent holes for the lace.
  • Stitching chisels: Help maintain even hole spacing.
  • Wing divider: Useful for marking straight hole lines.

Preparing leather properly before lacing makes the finished project much cleaner. Our guide on how to cut leather cleanly explains techniques that help achieve accurate cuts and neat edges.

Other helpful tools include a stitching pony to hold leather steady and an edge groover to create a recessed line for the holes.

Types of Leather Lacing

The type of lace you choose depends on the look and strength you want for your project.

  • Cowhide Lace: Strong and affordable, suitable for many leather projects.
  • Kangaroo Lace: Extremely strong and durable for fine or long-lasting work.
  • Deerskin Lace: Soft and flexible, often used for decorative projects.
  • Latigo Lace: Tough and weather-resistant, ideal for outdoor gear.
  • Suede Lace: Soft lace often used for jewellery and light craft projects.

Basic Leather Lacing Stitches Every Beginner Should Learn

Learning a few simple stitches allows you to assemble projects and decorate edges with confidence.

Running Stitch

The running stitch is one of the simplest lacing techniques. The lace passes straight through evenly spaced holes in a line, creating a clean and practical seam.

running stitch leather lacing step by step diagram

Watch the technique in action:

📄 Download the printable guide:

Running Stitch Leather Lacing Guide (Printable PDF)


Whip Stitch

The whip stitch wraps the lace around the edge of the leather. This creates a decorative border while also protecting the material's edge.

whip stitch leather lacing step by step diagram

Watch the technique in action:

📄 Download the printable guide:

Whip Stitch Leather Lacing Guide (Printable PDF)


Double Loop Stitch

The double-loop stitch is both decorative and strong. The lace passes through each hole twice, creating a braided look that is popular for wallets, bags, and belts.

double loop stitch leather lacing step by step diagram

Watch the technique in action:

📄 Download the printable guide:

Double Loop Stitch Leather Lacing Guide (Printable PDF)

Start Your Leather Lacing Journey

Leather lacing is a rewarding skill that allows you to personalise projects while strengthening seams and edges. With practice, you can use lacing to create durable bags, belts, wallets, and decorative accessories.

If you're looking for leather to practise lacing techniques, small off-cuts are a great place to start.

Browse Leather Scraps & Remnants →

Our guide to leather scrap projects shows several simple items that work well with lacing.

If you're new to leathercraft, you may also enjoy our 6 DIY leather craft projects for beginners, which include simple projects suitable for practising techniques like lacing and stitching.

Take your time, practise different stitches, and experiment with patterns. With the right tools and patience, leather lacing can quickly become a valuable skill in your leathercraft toolkit.

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